Anyone visiting the Island of Malta should not hesitate to visit the former capital and ancient city of Mdina. The present city covers only about a third of the original city, called by the Romans Melita, the name they also gave to the Island. Almost certainly inhabited by Phoenicians before the arrival of the Greeks and Romans, that original ancient city was surrounded by a ditch parts of which can still be seen behind St. Paul’s Collegiate Church in neighbouring Rabat.
Destroyed by Earthquake
It was the Arabs who reduced the city to its present size and dug the moat which separates Mdina (Arabic for City) from Rabat (Arabic for Suburb). The moat protects the south and west sides of the city. North and east sides are protected by thick stone walls on top of a steep cliff making access difficult and invaders easily observed and repelled.
Much of the medieval city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693 but it was subsequently rebuilt and it is these early 18th Century buildings that can be seen in the present day. The streets are narrow, ensuring they remain cool on the hottest of days – although in winter months those running north-south can concentrate an icy wind.
Among many impressive buildings are the Cathedral Museum, the Cathedral Church and Falzon Palace.
The first of these was originally constructed as a Diocesan Seminary which purpose it served for some 260 years. It was inaugurated as a museum in 1969 and houses a rich collection of art and archaeology.
St Paul Shipwrecked on the Island of Malta
The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Paul who was famously shipwrecked on the island of Malta. It is likely that the cathedral would have been rebuilt in its present style even had the old one not been destroyed by the earthquake for plans for the present structure were approved 8 months earlier.
Like many Maltese churches the twin towers on the south face each contain a clock. One indicates the time, the other the date. Inside the building contains many fine paintings, frescoes and sculptures.
Please bear in mind that modest attire is essential when visiting Maltese churches. Bare arms and legs are deemed to be disrespectful. Shorts and short-sleeved upper garments are not permitted.
Palazzo Falzon is one of the few medieval buildings to have survived the earthquake. Its arched doorway and graceful double windows is recognisably Norman. Now a museum, it contains a fine collection of carpets, as well as paintings, antique furniture and armour.
Outside the ancient city is Rabat whose streets are generally wider than those of Mdina. But Rabat is of equal historical significance, being part of the original Roman city of Melita which contained several palaces and temples. Remnants of these can be seen in the Museum of Roman Antiquities housed in a townhouse with a fine mosaic pavement. The latter is original although the building surrounding it was constructed in the 1920’s.
St Paul’s Grotto and Catacombs
The area is intimately connected with the introduction of Christianity to Malta. When St Paul was shipwrecked here in AD60 he is said to have slept for 3 months in a cave within the ditch outside the walls of the ancient city. Now known as St Paul’s Grotto, this cave has a church built above it and dedicated to the saint.
There are many catacombs to be found in the vicinity, of which one of the most extensive is that dedicated to St Paul to be found in Hal-Bajjada Street.
On the plain east of Rabat and Mdina is the war time air base of Ta’ Qali which now houses an air museum and a number of large and small craft businesses. Here it is possible to watch as skilled hands create exquisite filigree in gold and silver or fashion delightful pieces in coloured glass. Lace makers, gemstone workers and potters are also housed here. All are more than willing to talk about their work which is displayed for sale at very reasonable prices.
Dome Imitates Pantheon
Beyond Ta’ Qali, is the town of Mosta which is dominated by the dome of the Church of Our Lady’s Assumption. This is the third largest dome in the whole of Europe and about 10,000 people can be accommodated beneath it. It imitates the design of the Pantheon in Rome. In April 1942 a bomb, probably destined for the Ta’ Qali aerodrome, penetrated the dome and rolled across the floor without exploding.
The interior decoration is quite spectacular, dominated by the frescoes of Giuseppe Cali (1846-1930), but also containing several impressively carved silver altar fronts.
Further reading: Mdina Rabat – Mosta; Pub. Centro Stampa Editoriale. No ISBN but available in shops throughout Malta.
Frank Parker - Frank writes regularly on a diverse range of subjects which he researches thoroughly.
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